We determine what height to cut your lawn by a number of factors but most commonly it is based on the time of year and the type of turfgrass you have. We mow a little shorter in the spring but as temperatures rise through the summer we raise the height of cut so as to not stress the turf unnecessarily. We base our guidelines on industry standards and information put out by universities who research turfgrasses.
No, No one has to be home when your lawn is mowed. All we need is access to all areas of your property that have grass.
As a professional lawn care service our clients expect us to keep their grass mowed on schedule. This requires us to make good judgment calls on when to delay a mow. During months of the year when your lawn is actively growing it is better for us to come out and mow the lawn wet than it is to skip the lawn and run the risk of it going multiple weeks without a cut. We do our best to make the best decision for our clients but because of the subjectivity of this type of situation it can be hard to get right every time for every client’s preferences.
We offer two different mowing frequencies, weekly mowing and every two weeks or bi-weekly mowing. There is an expectation that you will be mowed on your agreed upon interval throughout the season. The mowing frequency may be lengthened in times of severe drought or adverse weather conditions. There is no minimum number of mows or contracts with any of our services. While we do not offer a one-time mow service we also do not require by contract a certain number of mows.
Rain is the most common cause of any delays with your mowing. We do our best to work through light to medium amounts of rain when it is safe to do so. If we get behind for any reason we will always be out the following day.
We work Monday through Friday. We use Saturdays for most of our commercial clients and to help make up for any rain delays on our residential lawns. We will be in certain neighborhoods on certain days and will provide you with a specific service day for your lawn. We make every effort to maintain the same route every week. Several factors can affect our schedule, so we cannot guarantee an exact time or specific time range each service day.
Because we follow a strict schedule, we don’t have the luxury of “taking off” on holidays or when it lightly rains. We mow in light rain or after the rains subsides. Typically, if it rains heavily throughout the day, we will be there the next day, weather permitting. We watch the weather forecasts! Our business depends on it. If heavy rain is forecasted for your scheduled day and we are able to move you a day ahead of your scheduled service day to complete the mowing before the rain falls we may do so. We will contact you if that occurs.
Bi-weekly services are offered, but we do not recommend this service, especially in the faster-growing portion of the season (April – August). Your yard growth may vary due to a variety of conditions, i.e. watering and fertilizing schedules, etc. We also will not cut the grass shorter than the industry accepted standards, which recommends only cutting 1/3 off the grass height each mowing. Bi-weekly servicing lends itself to such problems and complaints as the following: grass clumps, excessive grass clippings, grass lines or ridges which appear that we missed while mowing, and the appearance of an uneven cut in the yard. We do our best to make even the Bi-weekly cuts look good, but please be aware that every other week mowing will not look as well maintained as a weekly cut lawn.
Your gate must remain unlocked for the full day of your regularly scheduled service. If you prefer not to unlock your gate, we recommend that you use combo locks and that you provide us with the password or combination. Any areas that are not accessible will not be mowed. A trip charge may apply to come back to mow any areas that were not mowed on the initial stop.
We appreciate your letting us know if you have any pets that are kept outside so that the crews will be aware of them. Our crews will make every effort not to let your pet through gates. Please leave your pet inside on your scheduled service days. Please pick up all pet droppings, toys, large bones, large rocks, etc. the day before we mow. If hit by a lawnmower, objects like these in your yard are hazardous to our workers and others. Serious damage can occur to your property or our equipment!
Pre-emergent weed control is any herbicide product that prevents the successful germination of weed seeds before they mature into a visible plant. Weed seeds can lie dormant in your soil for years before germinating, so pre-emergents help control the weeds like crabgrass and other common weeds before they become a problem. We use pre-emergents because, in general, it is easier to prevent a weed than it is to kill one once it is established in your lawn.
Post-emergent weed control is any herbicide product that kills weeds after they have developed and are growing above the surface. We use selective herbicides for post-emergent weed control that are safe to be applied to your lawn and will kill the targeted weeds.
Different types of weed control are applied at different points in the season depending on the weather and other applications going into the lawn. The greatest focus of weed control is in the spring and fall when pre- and post-emergent herbicides are applied to the lawn as a whole. In the summer, weeds that have broken through are spot treated as needed.
Our standard weed control program covers most broadleaf weeds and crabgrass. Weeds like dandelions, clover, wild onions, henbit, chickweed, speedwell, buttonweed, oxalis, and plantains are a handful of examples of common broadleaf weeds in our area that are covered in our program. While there are a few that our program and the programs of other providers don’t cover, we have ancillary treatments available for every weed you could develop. Some of these treatments require expensive herbicides and methods to gain control of these problem weeds. These treatments require an additional charge because of the added expense to achieve control.
There are a few weeds that are not controlled by standard pre- and post-emergent weed control due to their biology. These difficult weeds include nutsedge and killing as well as some perennial grassy weeds. Each one has its own susceptibility to different herbicides that can be built into your program based on your priorities and budget, and we will always tailor your recommended services to be effective for your unique property.
Nutsedge, also called nutgrass, is a fairly common warm-season perennial weed that requires specific targeted herbicide treatments to control. Nutsedge looks like a grass but is noticeable for its extremely quick rate of growth and color that is a lighter green than turfgrass. Nutsedge is unique because of the “nutlets” that grow on the base of its roots; it is from these nutlets that a new plant sprouts each year, making it nearly impossible to eradicate by simply hand pulling it. We offer nutsedge treatments at stand-alone or monthly rates for customers who would like it controlled in their turfgrass.
Kyllinga is an odd looking perennial weed in the sedge family that develops in the summer. Kyllinga looks like grass with a thin blade and dense growth pattern, but it is discernible with a spiky looking seedhead at the base of its leaves. Kyllinga is less common than some of the other difficult weeds, but it can be very aggressive in how thickly it develops in a lawn. Because of its close relation to nutsedge, it is treated similarly and can be covered with ancillary applications.
The weeds that are common in Oklahoma each have their own preferences for ideal growing conditions. These factors can range from whether an area is shady or sunny to the wetness of the lawn to the balance of nutrients in the soil. As a result, certain weeds in certain parts of a property can be a good indicator of the conditions with which your turfgrass may be struggling. In general, the most common places in a lawn that weeds are going to develop are in areas where the turfgrass is thin or bare, most commonly at the edges of the lawn like against the road, driveway, or treeline. The best defense to weeds is a healthy and full stand of turfgrass!
Unless your property is in a completely controlled environment like some sort of outer space laboratory, there is no such thing as a weed free lawn. All lawns are open environments, which means that there are constantly weed seeds coming into your property from the air, animals, or underground. Be wary of any company that promises you “weed free” when the reality is “mostly weed free.” We guarantee that you will see improvement in your weed to turfgrass ratio each year so long as it is being cared for properly.
Our pre- and post-emergent weed control are a very strong foundation for covering most weeds you will see in your lawn, so you do not need to apply your own weed control on top of ours. In fact, you could cause more harm than good applying added herbicides to the lawn! The biggest thing you can do as a homeowner to reduce the risk of weed development is to mow weekly at a proper height of cut and make sure that your lawn is receiving about an inch of water each week, either by Mother Nature or a properly timed irrigation system.
We use both methods of application at different points in our program. Based on the season and the products included in the service we are able to utilize either application method based on what will be most effective for your lawn.
Absolutely! It is our policy to always let all of our clients know when an application is scheduled. Based on your preferred method of contact, we are able to call, email, or text you the day before treatment.
The cost of your program is largely dependent upon the size and layout of your property’s lawn. Fertilizer rates are based on production costs and the time it will take an applicator to service a lawn, which is why we provide personalized, up to date pricing after we have done a full in-person evaluation of your unique property.
Our fertilizer program fully encompasses your lawn’s nutritional needs throughout the year, so any fertilizer that you put down in addition to our program may do more harm than good. If you have your own products that you’re interested in using, we strongly encourage you to speak with us and we will gladly advise you on the most effective timing and rate based on what our program is already covering.
Depending on the service, there are some fertilizer applications that are best to water in within 24 hours of the treatment to help the product break down and enter the soil faster. We will let you know during a call ahead if this will be the case.
Not at all! Like with any service, a huge part of professionalism is efficiency. We use professional equipment. We use our experience and training to apply treatments as productively as possible. The important factor isn’t the amount of time spent on a property but rather the proper method of application and the success of the fertilizer products.
Fertilizer, which can be a broad list of nutrients and compounds that improve your soil’s fertility, is applied at a specific rate as a liquid or as small solid granules. The product then gradually breaks down and disperses into your soil, where it is then either directly absorbed by the roots of the grass or continues to change the overall composition and quality of the soil.
Because it’s the right thing to do! Every granular service will have some fertilizer landing on streets, driveways, or sidewalks. Because it’s not nestled in the lawn, these granules of fertilizer are at high risk of running off when it rains, which means they will go down the gutter and into our waterways. Fertilizer is a dangerous pollutant to these sensitive environments, so we are proud to do our part to follow protocol and reduce our environmental impact.